Posted by All-Nutrient Professional on Mar 16, 2018

 

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All-Nutrient Design Team member, William Whatley, is known as a modern day "Edward Scissorhands". His haircutting system, Geometrix, along with his styling and finishing techniques are exclusive and one-of-a-kind. Here are his top techniques to texturize cuts and take your basic cut to bombshell.

 


 

 1. Accessorizing

The final touches! When cutting hair wet and then styling your client with an amazing blow-out they often leave discouraged knowing their hair will never look the same when they style it.  Accessorizing allows you to dry-cut the client with their hair as it is when they walk in the salon. Cutting the hair dry allows you to shape the cut to exactly how they style their hair on a day-to-day basis. With the hair already in its natural fall or texture, the client can easily see how to recreate a style at home and leave the salon with more confidence. 

 2. Weaving

Remove weight and accessorize the cut by weaving a razor or shear through the hair like you were foiling. To add distinction to your cut work towards the root or ends. This technique is best used when dry-cutting.

 3. Sweep Cutting

This technique creates directional movement at the base or the root area of hair and allows you to determine how you want the hair to fall by sweeping the blade over the hair. 

 4. De-Bulking

De-bulking is often confused with "thinning" the hair, however the two are very different. De-bulking is designed to remove weight from thick hair. Thinning softens and lightens the hair. 

 5. Raking

This technique is also one that can be done with shears or a razor. Raking down the hair shaft will remove unwanted bulk and is best used on medium textured or wavy hair types.

 6. Deep Point Cutting 

Deep point cutting should be done on the last 50 percent of the haircut, below the de-bulking line. This technique is done in the middle shaft to remove unwanted hair, and create expansion and movement within the hair's natural formation. This method is best used on a client with very thick hair.

 7. Twist cutting

Twist cutting is best used to remove unwanted hair around the crown area of the head and enhance natural wave patterns by determining which direction the hair will fall. If you want the hair to fall forward, twist sections forward and if you want hair to fall backwards, twist backwards. 

 8. Swoop Cutting

Take a curved blade and lay the shear along the contour of head to remove bulk, weight, and accessorize all at the same time. As you come across the head, keep your blade flush with the shear half-way open. This way, you can control how much hair you want to remove. Start on the scalp and slowly lift as you come to the mid-shaft and the ends of the hair.

 9. Razor over comb

Using a razor over a comb creates the shattered, but not torn look. Create motion in the cut by following the hair line and determining the direction of how you want the hair to fall. For exact precision every time, use a brand new blade on every client. 

PRO TIP: Before you run the blade over the hair, coat the blade in a shine serum to create a shearing effect, rather than tearing. Learn more product cocktails and product use when cutting during William Whatley's hands-on Geometrix class. Information below.

 

Hands-On Geometrix by William Whatley will be taught
at our New Hampshire headquarters on March 25, 2018.


 CALL 1-800-221-3496 to reserve your spot.

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Read more about William.

Topics: Design Team