How do you work around the most common reluctances to coloring hair so that you can keep old clients coming back and new clients coming in?

When a national women’s magazine surveyed readers about their top haircolor gripes, and three common themes emerged: Hair health, cost, and time. We analyzed the key causes of these three objections to help prevent these problems and then fix them in order to keep color clients happy and reoccuring.

1. 56% of respondents who color said, "My hair use to be healthy. Now, it's not."

Cause:  Incorrect analysis prior to coloring, too much overlap, using too-high of a developer volume, use of heat during processing.

Prevention:  Adding a treatment or overlaying color with a demi helps calm the cuticle. But, to prevent all together, use a haircolor with a very low level of ammonia to open the cuticle gently.

2. 45% of colorholics want to quit regular visits but feel trapped by telltale roots, while 49% who don't color avoid it because it's too pricey. The solutions are related.

Causes: Coloring too far from natural level. A large percentage of gray. Overly complex apps.

Prevention: Base adjust. Apply haircolor one level closer to natural to just the regrowth and process 45 minutes. Transition the client to this shade in subsequent visits; roots will be less obvious and the client can extend visits to save money.

After-the-Fact Fixes: Use face-framing highlights to “fill-in” the root area and diffuse them at the line of demarcation. The root look is in, and clients see the front most. Or, try Color Melting. Apply 3 colors on each section, changing from dark to medium to light or work in reverse. Feather the areas between the shades by holding the brush vertically. Lay foils on top of one another without folding them. This avoids color transfer from the ends.

3. 49% of color “virgins” said they don't love their hue but fear major change.

Suggested Solutions: Making a simple tonal change with a demi makes all the difference. You can add splashes of color with face-framing foils and take a level 6 to a level 5 chocolate or caramel look. To save time and money, work off the hairline and part line; stop near the ears. Process for 10-15 minutes or dry hair; or use permanent color and process for 30 minutes.

"Blonde-a-holics” who went too far from natural have the biggest problems with cost control. For them, add lowlights in back, glaze the hair in-between and let them see more brightness in front. Avoiding a hard line of demarcation is key.

But, always discuss cost and upkeep before any color service, and offer options. When it costs the client less, they’re so happy they usually tip you the difference.